Allen Ancient Ideas On The Origin And Development Of Language Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Three- 1800 – 1900

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Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Three- 1800 – 1900

While looking into the history of hats and headgear, I discovered some obscure and unusual words. Having recently finished reading THE PROFESSOR AND THE MAD (Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the creation of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it might be fun to look into the definitions and etymologies of some of these ancient terms. but has disappeared from modern usage. [I’ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]

To be eligible for entry below, a word must appear with a curved red line in Microsoft Word’s “spell check” tool. So here goes:

[Note: As I move into part three of this project, terms become less lost in antiquity. I have included a few words, albeit rarely used today that did show up “spell check”.]

Poke Bonnet

Now history.

1. Hood with trailing edge, fashionable esp. In the 19th century.

1801 C. DIBDIN Song Smith in Mirth & Meter (1807) 62, I’ll play songs, if you please, As short as the new fashion, or as far as poke bonnets. 1820 F. MACDONOGH Hermit in London V. xcii. 35 Another street nuisance are your ladies in hats who sometimes poke your eyes out with these penthouse projections. 1837 E. BULVER-LYTTON Ernest Maltravers II. IV. vi. 67 Several middle aged ladies..wear..straw poke bone. 1858 RS SURTEES Ask Mamma ix, [A] lady..painted in one of those old poke bonnets from days gone by. 1884 cents. Mag. 28 14 Eight or nine ladies, gentlemen and children, in 1839 hooded and collared coats. 1913 W. CATHER O Pioneers! I. i. 12 This city girl was dressed in what was then called “Kate Greenaway”, .. the piercing hood gave her a strange little feminine look. 1984 P. ALLEN Cumbria Old Galleries (BNC) 18 Married women wore a hat, a blue linen apron, clogs with buckled shoes for better dressing, a hood and a cloak for their outerwear.

2. specification. Traditionally, the Society of Religious Friends (Quakers), Salvation Army, etc. this kind of hood worn by the female members of its members. So: the owner of this kind of hood.

1848 JR BARTLETT Dict. Americanisms sv, Poke-capo, a long, straight bonnet, much worn by Quakers and Methodists. 1862 H. MARRYAT A year in Sweden II. lvi. 264 We dined at a farm.. The property of the Anabaptists, the most numerous sect in Götland. There is no mistaking the women for their mean looks and black hoods. 1877 Saturday Rev. 12 May 577/2 At Croydon, Dorking, and other Friends’ favourites, broad-brimmed hats for men and brimmed hats for women can still be seen. 1899 St. James’ Gaz. 17 Aug 11/2 Never reach a church,..or any other spiritual organizations except ‘poke bonnets’ on street corners. 1902 Autobiography of E. BANKS. Newspaper Girl 107 A hood and a dark blue dress that I thought I wouldn’t buy until I spent a few days researching the best way to join the army. 1945 Musical P. 31 276 Amish women are easily recognized by their spiked hoods, shawls, and complete lack of ornament on their clothing. 2000 Sunday Herald (Glasgow) (Nexis) 14 May 36 Poke hooded Pennsylvania Amish go next, happy as a bug.

Gibus

f. Gibus is the name of the first creator.]

Opera or hat. Also a gibus-hat.

1848 THACKERAY Bk. Snobs xviii, With his hat and little glass pumps. a1854 E. FORBES Lit. Documents viii. (1855) 214 No man in Gibus ever enjoyed public admiration or private respect. 1888 Daily Tel. Apr 28 5/2 Collapsible Hat or Gibus.

[Note from Belinsky: Today a Gibus is more commonly known as a “Collapsible Top Hat”.]

Riding a casquette

[Fr.; fem. of casquet, dim. of casque CASQUE.]

A helmet-like headgear.

1840 LS COSTELLO Total. II among the Bocags. 206 Her long hair was tied with an oriental-looking cap.

[a. F. casque, ad. Sp. casco in same sense: see CASK n.]

1. A piece of armor to cover the head; helmet. A term very freely applied to all kinds of military titles, now only historical, poetical, or foreign. Previously written CASK.

1580-1649 [see CASK n. 4]. 1696 PHILLIPS, Casque, helmet. 1714 GAY Trivia III. 363 A fireman sweats from under his crooked arms, A leather casque protects his head. 1791 COWPER Iliad III. 375 They shook them in a brazen cascade. 1842 TENNYSON Galahad 1 My good knife carves men’s helmets. 1877 Daily News 24 Dec 5/4 Pauloff’s mitred helmets of the Guards regiment.

Manier Bandeau

[Fr.: OF. bandel, dim. form from bande BAND n.2; cf. BANDORE2.]

a. A narrow band or fillet worn by women to bind the hair, or as part of a headdress. b. Bandage for the eyes.

1706 T. BETTERTON Amorous Widow I. 4 The fairest hair, the fairest curls Shall not turn to thy Forehead, as a Bandon does. c1790 Diary of F. BURNEY (1842) I. 98 (D.) That bandage..every woman at court wore. a1847 MRS. Lady of SHERWOOD Manor III. xxi. 277 Just make this bandage for my hair. ?1858 J. MATTHEWS Autobiog. (1879) Me, in a nightcap tied with a navy blue bandeau. 1861 GEN. P. THOMPSON Audi Alt. III. clxi. 175 The Chancellor of the Exchequer sees under his bandage, as Paul Louis said of fortune. 1908 [see BARRETTE 2]. 1959 Sunday Times 5 April. 22/5 As small as a cap can be called, the bandeau and bow are held in a cage with a cover.

c. A strip of velvet or other material, usually circular, to be sewn into the lower part of the crown of a hat too large for the head.

1908 Daily Chron. January 29. 4/7 With the right ‘bandeau’..you don’t need to wear a hat at all.

Sennit Straw

Naut.

[var. of SINNET.]

a. = SYNNETTE. b. (See Quote 1858.)

1769 FALCONER Dict. Sea (1789), Sennit. 1858 SIMMONDS Dict. Trade, Sennit,.. plaited straw or palm leaves, etc., from which grass hats are made. 1881 Checkered Career 92 These young gentlemen must be seen.

attribute. and a comb. 1882 NARES Seamanship (ed. 6) 79 The discerning eye is cultivated. c1898 J. CHALMERS in Lovett Life (1902) 146 A long ship of sennite kept on deck was brought ashore to the natives on the reef.

[Note from Belinsky: Today, a Sennit Straw is more commonly know as a “Boater” or “Skimmer” or “Sailor Straw”.]

Montero

Now history.

[Cadogan

[Said to be from the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. & Q. 7th Ser. IV. 467, 492.]

The method of knotting the hair at the back of the head.

c1780 B’NESS D’OBERKIRCH Mem. (1852) II. ix, presented by the Duchess of Bourbon at the court of Montbéliard.[the fashion] cadogans, hitherto only worn by gentlemen.

Postilion hat

Now mostly history.

[Puggree

[a. Hind. pag a turban.]

1. A light turban or headdress worn by the inhabitants of the Indian subcontinent.

1665 SIR T. HERBERT Trav. (1677) 140 Eastern people..eg.. to wear Turbans, Mandils, Dustars and Puggarees. 1696 J. OVINGTON Voy. Suratt 314 Puggarie or with Turbans on their Heads. 1698 FRYER Acc. E. India & S. 93 Green vest and bean (or Turbat). 1845 SIR W. NAPIER Cong. Scinde II. i. 224 The Mohamedan Belooch always obeys the wearer of the Puggree. 1893 W. FORBES-MITCHELL Remin. Gt. Revolt 287 The latter wore thick, voluminous caps on their heads. 1930 Aberdeen Press & Jrnl. 22 April 5/2 He has no British officer’s uniform and no uniform other than a distinctive pagri (head-dress). 1930 Punch 1 Oct 392/2 Mr. Thompson must not allow this bee to find a permanent home in his pagri. 1974 ‘B. MATHER’ White Dacoit 18 Sowars made tunics and pagris.

2. A thin muslin scarf or silk veil wrapped around the crown of a sun helmet or hat and falling behind like a shade.

1859 DICKENS All Year Round 30 July 332/1 ‘Puggery’ is a long piece of white muslin tied around the hat and made into a fantastic bow with tails behind. 1866 Cornh. Mag. December 741 Silk coats, coats, boots and white cords adorned the wealthy. 1885 Time 20 Feb 6/1 Officers and men dressed in red serge tunics, ..sun helmets and puggarees. 1901 B. SHAW Three Plays for Purit., Capt. Brassbound I. 215 He wears a sun helmet and pagri, neutral colored glasses, and white canvas Spanish sand shoes.

3. atrib., as puggree-cloth.

1934 [see DRILL n.5]. 1978 ‘MM KAYE’ Far Pavilions vi. 98 He was tied to it with a long pagri (chalma) which prevented him from falling.

Hence pugg(a)reed a., covered or clothed with paggree.

1881 MRS. C. PRAED Policy & PI 13 Wide brimmed hat. 1900 Daily News 1 August. 3/1 The graceful wave of his green, enviable soft hat.

Cabriolet

[a. F. cabriolet, deriv. of cabriole, so called from its elastic bounding motion.]

1. a. A light two-wheeled chaise longue drawn by a horse, with a large hood of wood or leather, and a wide apron to cover the lap and legs of the sitter. In 1830, the CAB was contracted and subsequently applied to any car known by that name. Also, the top or open part of a carriage. b. A motor vehicle with fixed sides and a folding top.

2. A bonnet or cap resembling the shape of a cabriolet.

1771 H. WALPOLE Lieut. July 31 (1904) 63, I gave him two convertibles instead of six, because I consider them very dear. 1923 Daily Mail 22 Jun 11 Cabriolet hats are back in fashion… With the cabriolet there should be ribbon bands that fall over one shoulder.

Marseille Wave

[Psyche Knot

[a. Gr. (in L. ps ch ) breath, f. to breathe, to blow, (later) to cool; hence, life (identified with or indicated by the breath); the animating principle in man and other living beings, the source of all vital activities, rational or irrational, the soul or spirit, in distinction from its material vehicle, the or body; sometimes considered as capable of persisting in a disembodied state after separation from the body at death.

In Mythology, personified as in 1c. By Plato and other philosophers extended to the anima mundi, conceived to animate the general system of the universe, as the soul animates the individual organism. By St. Paul (developing a current Jewish distinction between rua , , spirit or breath, and nephesh, , soul) used for the lower or merely natural life of man, shared with other animals, in contrast with the or spirit, conceived as a higher element due to divine influence supervening upon the original constitution of unregenerate human nature: see PSYCHIC a. 2, PSYCHICAL 2. (For this and other developments in pre-Christian Judaism, and the N.T. writings, see R. H. Charles, Hist. of the Doctrine of a Future Life, 1899.)]

1. A soul or spirit distinct from the body; mind.

1658 SIR T. BROWNE Hydriot. iv. 61 Why is Tiresias’ soul or spirit male? 1794 SULLIVAN Review Nt. II. 279 The two main elements of all sublunary things were called by the ancient Greeks psyche and hyle, that is, spiritus et materia, soul and body. 1877 tr. Virchow in Tyndall Fragm. Sc. (1879) II. xv. 407 If I explain attraction and repulsion as exhibitions of the mind, psychic phenomena, I am simply throwing Psyche out the window, and Psyche ceases to be Psyche. 1879 LEWES Study Psychol. 73 Most Accredited [ancient] thinkers have separated not only Man from Nature, but Mind from Organism; they invented Psyche as the source of all mental phenomena. 1888 New Princeton Rev. March 272 Psychology is the science of the psyche or soul. 1896 P. GARDNER The Sculptural Tombs of Hellas 24 For Homer, the psyche is not at all like the Christian Spirit, but is the shadowy double of man in need of the same power and wisdom. 1905 EJ DILLON in Contemp. Rev. August 287 It is difficult to understand Rozhdestvensky’s position and imagine his psyche. [the Russian admiral who fired on the North Sea fishing fleet].

b. The animating principle of the universe as a whole, the soul or anima mundi of the world.

1647 H. MORE Soul’s Song Notes 138/2 Such is the entry of Psyche into the Vniversal body, which kindles and excites the dead mist. 1678 CUDWORTH Intell. System. I. iv. §21. 388 This is regarded by Plotinus as the Eternal Psyche actively producing everything in this Lower World according to those Divine Ideas. There again. §23. 406 Elsewhere, however..he often asserts an Immutable and Permanent Nous or Intellect, which is the Demirurgus above the Self-Moving Psyche.

c. In later Greek myth, she is personified as the lover of Eros (Cupid or Love) and is represented in artwork as butterfly wings or a butterfly; In literature, he is known as the hero of the story about Apuleius’ Golden Donkey. Hence the attribute. In the sense of “like Psyche”, Psyche-knot (hair), Psyche-mould, as in Psyche task.

1876 ​​GEO. ELIOT Dan. Says lxi, Mirah’s frame had an ardent quality of emotion in the Psyche mold that must sometimes hastily claim the bulk of Cleopatra. 1888 AR DIEHL Two Thousand Words 170 Psychic knot, the manner of wearing the hair in a projecting curl in the middle of the back of the head. 1895 SB KENNEDY, Outing (USA) 8/2 Oct Do you think this Psyche knot fits my particular cut of features? 1901 Westm. Gas. 28 May 2/4 After many Psychic tasks the burden of fate is already solved, I hope there is no more work. 1904 Ibid. 30 Nov 4/2, I’m not quite sure I know what a ‘Psyche knot’ is. 1968 J. UPDIKE Couples v. 404 Her hair was tied in a psychic knot.

Fred Belinsky

http://www.VillageHatShop.com

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